Chef’s cutting board

Sushi restaurant grading proposal faces tough issues

 

Cultural News, March 2007

 

 

By Andy Matsuda

 

    The Japanese government has allocated more than two million dollars to implement a program that will “spread right Japanese cuisines” in the world. It was the result of the Japanese government’s concern over the quality of Japanese food as sushi restaurants continue to proliferate throughout the world.

 

     In the middle of January, the Japan’s Department of Agriculture sent a research team to New York City to analyze the way sushi was being made and handled in the U.S. 

 

    They have concerns that the sushi restaurants outside of the Japan could damage the reputation of Japanese cuisine if the restaurants do not live up to the standards that are present in Japan.

 

   To combat this fear, a grading system for Japanese restaurants worldwide has been proposed by some Japanese officials.  It is in many ways modeled after the French system of grading French restaurants worldwide.

 

    The French grading system works because there is standardized training and access to that training throughout the world.  But sushi chefs outside of Japan do not have that option. Without the training, they merely imitate the cooking and are under-educated in sushi-making techniques.

 

    I share the same concern as the Japanese government on this issue, but I do not agree with imposing a grading system for Japanese restaurants. Sending the research team to New York City already evoked a negative reaction with the labeling of the Japanese officials “Sushi Police.”

 

   In Japan, a food chef must undergo a licensing test. Those interested must undergo training before taking the government-approved examination.  The training process can take up to two years.

 

   Before the Japanese government can rank Japanese restaurants worldwide, they should train chefs. My proposal is to make Japan’s food chef licensing requirement global.  Japan’s food chef examination should be conducted in English and at overseas locations.

 

    It has taken us 50 years to establish sushi and Japanese cuisine to a point where it is now a part of the American culture. A ranking system without a training system would lead to a backlash against not only Japan but also Japanese restaurants and all Japanese food related business such as whole seller throughout the world.

 

     Andy Matsuda is founder and Chief Instructor of the Sushi Chef Institute located in Little Tokyo. For information about the school, visit www.sushischool.net.
    (This text is completed by Gavin Kelley)